San Fermin de Mayo

The 14th of July is still a bit of a blur for me. It was a big day. I met Iñaki's family on his Dad's side, woke up at 5:30 a.m., and it was the last day of San Fermin. We laughed, we cried, we ate, we drank... we ate and drank some more. My body was stretched to it's limit of being tired, and then some. I found out just how much food I can actually eat before feeling like passing out (didn't think it was possible). I haven't sweat that much since Oregon City Basketball Camp, during which we played 5 games a day. I have never felt more disgustingly dirty, like I could actually sleep comfortably standing up, or out of place in my whole life... I have to come back next year!

Like I said, the day began at 5:30 a.m. The events of the day might best be described in a timeline format in fact. Iñaki, Irene and I headed down town from the Mayo abode at 6:15. We found a good parking spot and had a short walk to the square in front of the government building (where all the pictures of the crowds were taken in my previous blog). "La Pamplonesa" one of the official San Fermin bands begins the day with a little walk down one of the streets in old town while people dance all around them calling out which number song to play. The songs don't really have numbers, but there are 4 and everyone thinks they know which is which, but they don't and it's just a bunch of chaos until they start a new song and everyone pretends like that's the one they asked for. It begins at 6:45 a.m. and it's called "Las Dianas." We met up with Iñaki's dad Paco, Mikel, Aunt Pilar, her friend Gracia and Irene's main squeeze, Dani at about 6:30.

The band let it rip at 6:45 sharp and we all danced down the street next to it. It was a pretty great way to start the morning. Really, there are bands walking through the streets each day and all the time during San Fermin. It's pretty cool. Everywhere you turn you could end up in your own personal parade.

After Las Dianas came a bit of awkwardness. We walked back to Eduardo's apartment to catch the Encierro (Running of the Bulls) at 8 a.m. Iñaki's Dad is a little intimidating to me and speaks Spanish quite quickly and always looks you right in the eye and was on the board at the basketball club and is all official so I sort of shied away from much contact with him at first. I talked with Pilar and Gracia a bit, but all my small talk had dried up by the time we were on the balcony at Eduardo's and still had a half hour before the run. Irene, Iñaki and Paco, went to go buy churros while the rest of us hung out in the apartment. It's traditional to eat churros for breakfast during San Fermin and there's a specific churreria that everyone goes to and they sell them fresh by the bagful.

When the churros arrived, we chowed down and took a swig or two off the Brugal bottle (it's just San Fermin, I swear!). At one point, I turned around from out on the balcony and saw Paco back in the apartment leaning with his back against the kitchen counter with the bottle in two hands, head tilted back and pouring it into his mouth like a man needing water in the desert. It was quite a sight.

We passed the rest of the pre-run out on the two balconies just watching the crowd, my nerves running too high to understand or speak a word in anything other than a thick American accent. So, I held tight to Mikel who took pity on me and busted out some English. He kept telling me to go down and run. He said he'd come with me if he could just be a few feet ahead of me. Ha ha ha.

As we stood watching a song began to rise from below and I looked down and made eye contact with a group of young, strapping, Spanish runners who seemed to be serenading me. At first I thought, oh, that's kind of fun, so I focused in and listened to what they were saying. Spain seems to have so many jovial songs, I thought it might be familiar. As I strained my ear and leaned forward, they only got louder. After a few verses, the chorus became quite clear... "Hey brunette girl, show us your boobs."

I'm sure as soon as I noticed what they were saying, realization flooded my face and I hoped none of the family had heard as I tried to duck back into the apartment discreetly. But, it was too late. Irene started yelling at me from the next balcony over, "Darby, they're singing to you!" I just sort of shook my head nervously, like I didn't understand and, as Irene's a brunette as well, with much bigger jugs than mine, I acted like they must be talking to her and snuck back into the livingroom.

Yet, once I did so, I felt a bit disappointed in myself. Afterall, it was San Fermin. It was my move and I folded. So, I went back out, stuck my chest out, completely clothed of course, and the songs started up a little later. I wagged my finger at them and smiled sweetly. As they were letting the crowd break and spread a bit, I acted like I was going to do it... and then let them all run away without showing a thing. I was satisfied with it anyway. You may think this little antecdote is self absorbed. Really, though, all the men during San Fermin want to see boobs and they don't care who's, it's just like Mardi Gras. I just happened to be the one who got the song that time.

Moving on... by 8:30 we had finished watching the bulls, a spectacular view once again. One of my favorite moments was Dani yelling at the T.V. announcers about a strong opinion he had on how the Encierro had gone. He´s always got an opinion and was fighting the whole room on what he thought. It was hilarious. Next, it was decided that churros were not enough to suffice our tummies. We headed out to find a bar for breakfast, the whole group. We were seated outside at a long table about a half an hour later, after some walking and ordered eggs and chistezorra (chistorra to Spain, chistezorra to me) and wine and bread and yum yum yum.

As we sat and ate, I was getting tired and full and not understanding at all. Irene and Iñaki kept trying to talk to me but my brain was as fried as the egg on my plate and I felt like an idiot because Iñaki kept having to translate. Dani was sitting across from me during a great moment where my head was swivelling back and forth trying to catch a few words. All the sudden he just started giggling and I turned to see he was staring straight at me. He spoke to me and I understood my first clear Spanish words all day, "You're trying but you just don't understand." It was great, he totally got how I was feeling. It was like he summed up my morning in one statement. I'm glad he at least saw my effort : )

Irene, Mikel and Dani had been up all night so they left for some rest after breakfast and it was down to me, Pilar, Gracia, Iñaki and Paco by 10 a.m. Paco decided, hey, it's time for more churros. Feeling stuffed, I said no thanks, but we went to the churreria and stood in line to get them. Do, duh, do, I twittled my thumbs and stood around and didn't talk much. We got into the churreria after about 20 minutes and it was pretty cool. They had pictures up all over the walls of past groups of churro makers from San Fermines gone by. I think it's only open this time of year actually, but I'm not sure. They had little samples to take from a round little old lady before you bought your big bag and scuffled out the door as the next customers squished in. It was a neat pinch of history. It just goes to show how deeply rooted and historical San Fermin is here. The churro place even has a past. I bet you Hemmingway got a churro there!

With our second bag of churros in tow, we strolled over to the Plaza del Castillo. When I politely (I thought politely at least) refused a churro, as I thought it might make me hurl, Paco said to me, in my second phrase successfully understood in Spanish of the day, "Darby, we eat here." So, I said fine and Paco then pulled them away from me. As Bogey said best, "Louis, I think this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship."

Anyway, I ended up eating the damn churro and could barely walk when we got to a bar in the plaza and sat down for some beers and rum with lemon. This was at 11 o´clock a.m. Wow. I was sitting there getting a little buzz on and my nerves were finally letting loose when a direct question was posed to me by Paco. I sort of understood, sort of didn't. I don't even remember what it was really, but we got into a tiny chat I guess, with Iñaki as an interpreter when needed. Apparently a lot of jokes were being thrown at me and I was missing every one of them. I guess at some point, I was told later, that Paco said, "The U.S... I like the country, but the people, not so much." He then asked me if I understood and I said yes, smiling like an idiot, but I guess I hadn't. Pilar got the point across to me after this that I was going to have to carry a lot on my back as the day went on, meaning a lot of horse poo was going to be flung my way, so watch out.

That's when I put my game face on and got ready for the long haul. Number one, it was affirmed that we were going to be together all day whether I liked it or not. Number two, I was getting braver by the second. Number 3, I have a blog, so I always get the last laugh ; ) So, I grabbed Iñaki's rum and lemon, drank more of it than he did and laced up my gloves.

Sadly, the rest of this tale will have to come later on. My butt hurts from sitting at the compy for so long and I need a run.

P.S. did you know we have huge fields of sunflowers here? They are amazing! I'll get a picture and blog that soon too. Speaking of pics, I forgot my camera on the 14th, so all I have is from that night out. Those will be up in the next blog. Or maybe not. I'm at about noon and I have to cover until 5:30 the next morning, so we'll see, possibly 2 more entries. Still to come are events like the huge family lunch, U.S.A. being chanted at me frequently, getting dowsed with rum and coke, meeting up with Luis and screaming for joy at the sight of a familiar face... the list goes on. Love to all!

San Fermines... bwa!!!

While walking through the streets of old town Pamplona one Saturday night, the unmistakable scent of urine wafted up into my nostrils. I immediately said to Iñaki, "ew gross, someone peed outside." He turned to me, breathed in, and smiled with his eyes closed pensively replying, "mmm, San Fermines. That smell gives me goosebumps." I said, "what?!? Gross, what's wrong with you?" He said, "Darby, you'll understand this July."

And now, I do. San Fermines is crazy, amazing, nothing like anything in the whole world, and yes, the streets smell like pee... and it's great! Before I arrived in Pamplona, I knew San Fermines as the running of the bulls. I thought the bulls ran one time, people got hurt, and that was it. I was really wrong. It's actually a 9 day long party that begins on July 6th and ends on the 14th and the bulls run every day and there are bull fights every day. The way Iñaki explained it to me was that Pamplona is quite a conservative city. People dress in a particular manner, eat meals at the right times, get enough rest, give cordial hellos and the like. San Fermines is the one week of the year where everyone goes crazy and does all their "sinning" in one foul swoop. Here's some more info.

The whole town is into it. You see grandparents out in the street drunk and singing, teenagers with arms interlocked dancing all over and families trudging through all of it. And, everyone, I mean EVERYONE is dressed in white with the red scarf at the neck and waist. You go to the grocery store, and everyone is in the San Fermines outfit, you walk down the street and there it is, you knock on someone's door and they will be wearing it when they answer. The city is completely into it. It's like it doesn't matter if other people can't see you not wearing it, San Fermin can!

My San Fermin began slowly and I only experienced sort of a mini one this year. That was fine with me as I was so jet lagged all week. I returned to Pamplona on Tuesday and went to sleep. All of the plazas, there are numerous, have various events each night and I rested up to catch a couple concerts that night. I'm not sure when I woke up, but I was downtown in time for the fireworks at 11 pm with Iñaki and his cousin, the brother of Nanes, also known as Mikel. Really though, I have to give two snaps and a twist to Mikel because he kicks ass as a person. He's hilarious and we were best friends from the start.

So, we caught the fireworks in the park, which were so close that the debree fell on our heads as we looked up at them. We met up with Irene and Sergio afterwards and hit up the Mateo Parker concert in the Plaza del Castillo. It was packed with people. We headed over to another plaza and checked out a cuban piano player as well, who I can't remember the name of, but it was sweet. I got home pretty early, around 4 I think, and slept until like 3 Wednesday afternoon. I was so tired.

On Wednesday night we went out to this all city inclusive parade called Struendo. During the year in San Sebastian they have a pretty serious and talented drum procession that comes with a certain holiday. It starts at midnight there and goes for a weekend, ending at another midnight, I think. During San Fermines, Pamplona has a drum procession that begins at 11:59, to make fun of the one in San Sebastian sort of, and anyone can come and bang their drums and just make noise in general. So, Iñaki and I took Irene her huge bass drum that her dad had given her that looked pretty official and I took a tiny drum that hangs around your neck on a chord and used pens as sticks. So Irene and I marched down the street with the huge group and Iñaki followed with his purple kazoo. A bunch of TV people stopped Irene because she had such a huge drum, so I just stood behind her and smiled awkwardly. We only walked down one street but it took nearly a half an hour. We left the crowd at that point and hit up the apartment.

I forgot to tell you all about the apartment... Iñaki's friend Eduardo has an apartment right in downtown Pamplona, on the street where the bulls run. He was out of town during the week so he gave the key to Iñaki so we could use it to eat, go to the bathroom, or watch the bulls. It was great!

So, we went to the apartment, made some rum and cokes and hit the town. The streets were jam packed, like the night before. There were people from all over the world and everyone is your best friend. Iñaki had to work the next day, so he went home and Irene and I went out. We just found a bar and hung out and danced the night away. A group of guys found out I was American and started squirting me with a squirt gun, but I took over, fought them for it and won! Mwuah ha ha ha!!

By about 6 I was all danced out and went back to the apartment to get a couple hours rest before the Encierro, running of the bulls, at 8. Irene was a trooper and stayed out all night and met me back at the apartment at about 7:30 and woke me up so I could watch. She had the TV on and was out on the balcony and said, "Darby venga, puedes dormir cuando estás muerta (you can sleep when you're dead)" or something like that. Forgetting I had taken my pants off to get into bed, I walked out on the balcony in my white tank, scarf and white undies, oops. There was a huge crowd, but I ran back in before anyone saw too much, I think. It doesn't really matter anyway because there's lots of "freedom" during the week as far as wearing clothes goes, so I was pretty well covered.

Anyhow, pants entact, I went out on the balcony again and it was amazing. The government building was right there and the street was packed with people either running or watching. We just stood there and gazed in awe. A horn sounds at 8 am and the run starts! First the 6 stronger bulls and then, a few minutes later, the weaker ones. It was crazy. We saw a guy get hit right in front of the apartment. I didn't realize how bad it was until we saw the gorings on the news a few minutes later. Yikes.

We searched different news channels after the run to find more info and saw ourselves on TV from the night before! Irene was in front with her big drum and I was right next to her with my teeny one banging away, it was hilarious. We locked up the apartment and took a leisurely walk and bus ride home and I got back to Tajonar around 10 am. I didn't get to sleep until around 11:30 because I was still all wired. I had to rest for the next two days to prepare for the final day of San Fermines, Saturday the 14th, which is a whole blog for itself. Here are some pictures from the big she-bang thus far in your blog experience...

The opening of San Fermines on the 6th in front of the goverment building. This is a view from the balcony of the apartment. People are packed in and just waiting for the government to say, "ok, now you can party."

This is how it looks for the running of the bulls. They just put fences up and about 15 minutes before 8 they let the crowd spread out a little more than this.
This is me getting dressed for my first night of San Fermin.
This is (left to right) me, Mikel, Irene (half covered by Iñaki), Iñaki and Sergio just after the fireworks on Tuesday. We were in this big carnival game area they had set up walking to the Plaza del Castillo.
This is Irene and I at the cuban pianist concert. Don't worry, that was a communal cup, not just mine ; )

This is Irene being interviewed one of many times about her drum during the midnight music parade, El Struendo.
This is Irene and I carrying our drums to the apartment. As you can see, mine was a tiny.
This was the huge drum that lead the procession and Irene made friends with the guy who guarded it, so we got to take pictures like we were going to hit it, but we weren't really allowed to. Anyway, here's mine.So, that's it until later when I will tell you all about my amazing last day of San Fermines which was enough to last me the year. Here are some more pictures you can view from one of the papers here. Check back for more!

oh what a week!

Hi everyone!

I've been a busy bee over here in Spain the last two weeks. Last week was San Fermines (the running of the bulls) and this week I've been with the kids during the day and job and apartment hunting. Yes, there has been downtime to blog, but I've been using it to catch up on my sleep.

So, this isn't going to be a spectacular post just yet, but some pics from the wedding and a few comments. The San Fermines blog is coming and it will be crazy.

I had so much fun while I was home! Thanks to everyone for all the hugs and hellos. It's making me a little homesick now to think of it. Anyhow, here are some of my favorite pictures from the wedding week. Most of you know who everyone is, so I'll just post them for your viewing and add captions if I deem necessary...

We actually look sort of alike in that one, huh Whit? Maybe it's just the same skin tint that does it.

These next few I like to call my "rosey phase" similar to Picasso's "blue phase." However, where Picasso was depressed during his blue phase, I was just a little drunk during my rosey phase, and rosey cheeked, so all the pictures have me in them next to someone as I'm holding the camera out to take the snap... it's all Darby, all the time.
My mom's so pretty!
The morning after...
This is not my best face, but Pa Pete looked so cute I just had to put it.What a great week! I think my favorite part was that we were all together all the time. Mom and Dad came out with us after all the events of the wedding and I got to talk to and get to know some of Kev's best friends from high school who I never had before. It's tough being Kevin Cave's little sister... but a little sister all grown up is a pretty good deal.

I've had a couple strong pangs of miss-age the last couple days. I was telling mom how I was watching The Big Lebowski, in English, and it made me miss home. Just watching a movie in English did it to me, and the movie has nothing to do with Oregon. I wish I could be on the Sandy River and go swimming and have BBQs and go on runs and lay out in the sun and kick it with my friends.

But, I still love my life here too. San Fermines was amazing and I had a conversation with a girl from my team in Spanish the other day who I normally can't even understand so I feel like I'm improving. Last night Luis, Iñaki and I went on a picnic. We took a wrong turn and didn't end up sitting down to eat until like 11 and wound up back in my pueblo, Tajonar. It was pitch black out by then, and cold. I just kept laughing as we ate because of the situation. Cars would drive by and there we were on the side of the road at a stone table eating rice salad and an 8/10 tortilla.

The point is, I miss home, but I am actually feeling more comfortable here as far as life goes. Before, it was so awesome and everything was new and then for a while it was just hard to understand and speak and I was being so quiet in group situations. Now, maybe not tomorrow, but now, I know that I can talk if I want and be understood and understand if I ask questions and focus (how many times have I said that in this blog...?). It's a good feeling. I had a job interview, in Spanish, the other day, and I understood pretty much and answered back. But, I'm not that great yet. As Eduardo and Pilar always say to me, poco a poco.

Send me some updates from home when you have time. Miss and love you!