Baile de la Alpargata

I'm a little obsessed with Hemingway. As far as his writing goes, not so much. His prose is a little too macho, macho, man, unga bunga for me to stay interested for very long. All the impotence, war and desperately flawed females just don't do it for me. This is a personal opinion, and though I'm a writing and lit major, I don't consider my opinion to be all that important, so don't give me any crap about, "oh, well who are you to say that about Hemingway..." I am obsessed with Hemingway because of the life he lived, especially here in Pamplona. I couldn't get through The Sun Also Rises, or Fiesta, in college, but after living in Pamplona, reading it was like buttah. All the descriptions were familiar and it made me feel like I was, and am, walking in his footsteps as an ex-pat and a Navarra lover.

The last time I lived here, I went out... a lot. At the end of each good night, which was usually at about 7 in the morning, my friends and I took a picture in front of the Hemingway statue near the bull ring. It's a large bust of Hemingway, and I've said this before, but it basically says, "dear Hemingway, thanks for partying your ass off here, love, Pamplona."

On maybe the 10th or 11th of July during San Fermines this year, Iñaki's father got us some invitation only tickets to the Baile de la Alpargata, the Ball of the Alpargata. It is heald in the upstairs rooms of the Iruña, which is a bar located in the middle of the Plaza del Castillo. It is said that Hemingway used to hang out there when he was in Pamplona for the festival and stayed in the hotel across the street, if you can call it a street. It's more like a cobblestone road. It is also said that these 2 upstairs rooms were once casinos and that Hemingway was often invited up to lose some pesetas. Here's what the ballroom looks like.

And here is the view from the balcony, panorama pic at the top of this blog also.

Heading past the bouncer who checked our tickets at 9 a.m. and walking up the warn white quartz stairs to see beautiful vaulted ceilings, golden mirrors and stained glass roofs made me a little emotional. I really don't know why I feel such a strong connection to the man, but I love being where Hemingway was and feeling his history. I guess knowing that another American felt the way I do about this city and the people who live here makes us distant kindred spirits. Plus, I really loved Midnight in Paris this year and Woody Allen's depiction of Mr. Ernie made me feel like I knew him even better. Here's a bit more ambiance for you.

I should explain, an alpargata is a typical shoe from this region. It's the simpler, original version of a TOM'S that all of the folks coming to San Fermin in days past wore for the whole festival and in their daily lives. These days, some people wear them during the day, but to wear them at night would be risky as you might get a chard of glass through the foot. The ball has been modernized and has a stage at one end with a singer and they play various typical songs that people dance to. They also serve churros and chocolate, the customary breakfast for any Sanferminera. However, these churros left a lot to be desired, as the place to go is the Churreria, hands down the BEST. But, we got some good pictures.

Iñaki wasn't up for much dancing, so we just hung out on the balcony and in the hallway between rooms bobbing and swaying to the old timey Spanish tunes. Paco and Inma cut a rug, of course, and it was fun watching them twirl around the dance-scuffed parkay. I wish we'd snapped better shots of the ballroom because it was just enchanting. Dwight, we need you there next year!

This was one of those situations that made my butt tingle with excitement, like being on top of a tall building or eating great food (who am I kidding, great food makes me cry!). I'm not sure I've properly described it here, so just let me finish by saying, if I'm ever homesick during this adventure, I think a nice glass of port or a shot of brandy at the Iruña will always clear my head and remind me that I am trying to snatch life by the huevos and do something most people don't get to, rather than sitting back and waiting for life to happen. And, yes, I have had half a bottle of wine. C'mon, it's a Hemingway entry, it deserves a little drama and a lot of tinto!

Love to all!