Pobre de Mi

When San Fermin ends, it doesn't just peter out. There are many holidays that do just that and leave you with a sad, empty feeling. Halloween, Thanksgiving or Christmas, for example... OK, Thanksgiving does not leave you feeling empty. BUT, you have an amazing time trick-or-treating, carving pumpkins, watching football, eating deviled eggs, hanging with the people that mean the most to you and then it just ends. No one says when, no one says where, but slowly and always, people start to decide it's time to go home and others follow and you're just expected to accept it.

That's one of the reasons I like San Fermines, there's a party that celebrates the end and it's clear that it's over and we're all in the same boat. Los San Fermineros join again in front of town hall at midnight on the 14th of July each year. Feet drag a bit through urine, vomit stained streets and heads hang low from exhaustion and drunken rampage on the way. On day 1 you thought, "how the hell am I gonna make it through this?! It's disgusting! I'm completely dehydrated and have depleted all energy stores! I am a hooligan, vagabond and I think I may have broken every moral code I have!" Miraculously, by the 14th, your attitude has changed to, "No, San Fermin, please, don't go! I want to be in this place where I'm always a good dancer and rum is the new water, forever! I look hot in wine soaked white t-shirts and crusty old high tops! I hate showers! Please San Fermin, stay!" Sadly, it has to go and we all meet again to lament. This time it's dark, candles are passed out to light the square and fireworks go off to mark it, the end. I was so lucky to have the view from the balcony this year, gives me chills.

The Pamplonesa plays a few tunes on the steps of town hall to brighten the mood and we get ready for the mayor to step out on his balcony by tugging at our handkerchiefs and untying them. Holding these little red offerings over our heads the mayor tells us for sure, the party is over and we join together in song:

Pobre de mi (Poor me)
Pobre de mi (Poor me)
Se han acabado las fiestas de San Fermin (The San Fermin fiesta has ended)

Pretty cool how bright and golden it gets from the candlelight.

And then, just when you think you couldn't get any sadder or poorer, a notion crosses your mind, "hey this isn't over, not really. It comes every year, yeah, it does! Oh my God, a new one will come in a year! This is so exciting! And who says we can't party all year anyway, yeah, yeah, yeeeeeah boyeeeeee!"

Somehow, this hits everyone at the same time and we start singing a different song, all at once.

Ya falta menos (Now there's less time)
Ya falta menos (Now there's less time)
Ya falta menos (Now there's less time)
Para San Fermin! (Until the next San Fermin!)

It reminds me of this:

And we all huddle out of the plaza for one last night of partying (click pic for a larger panorama).

Here is a video for you to enjoy as well:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kI-ecG0TKo8&feature=plcp

So, as is evident by this post, San Fermin will be back next year. I may have a full house, but put it on your bucket list and just sleep in the park!